20 Questions with Luisa
Luisa DiTrapano came back to her hometown of Charleston, West Virginia after college and adventure and opened her catering and gourmet take out business, Cucina Luisa, in the popular Bridge Road shopping district. Twenty-eight years ago, I was the new girl in town and wandered into her shop, first meeting her pastry chef Janet Wakefield. The rest is history and when I described how I met my dear friend Luisa to my daughter’s boyfriend he said, ‘ah, that sounds like a fairytale!’
Luisa and Janet created gourmet spreads for events all around Charleston and I eventually joined them for catering fun. About 10 years later when Luisa started teaching cooking classes in a kitchen design showroom, I enlisted as her assistant, then added my own teaching topics into the mix. Such was the launch of our hundreds of cooking classes in three different showrooms and in home kitchens in Charleston.
Luisa hung up her chef’s coat a couple of years ago for a career change. Now she works at the Charleston law firm Calwell Luce di Trapano as the facilities and events manager and says, “Everything I’ve done my whole life has all come together. I manage the building, plan all the events, book all the travel and do all the cheffing. I love it!” Booking travel is as natural to her as cooking Italian food. She has combed the globe and is eager to book a table on another continent the moment the current situation allows.
What’s your 20 minute recipe? Probably Amatriciana sauce because I usually have all the ingredients. I alway have guanciale or pancetta in the freezer, Pomi tomatoes, onion, Italian crushed pepper flakes. I hit it with a little wine before adding the tomatoes. Fresh parmigiano reggiano. I never do the right pastas with the right sauce. I use what I have in the pantry. My grandmother used the classic pairing with bucatini but I prefer other shapes. Spaghetti or linguine is a good substitute.
What’s your favorite city? Roma! Certo! I was 18 when I first went and have possibly been every year since then. I lived there for a year after I sold my first catering business in 1998. It was wonderful.
What’s the best meal you’ve ever eaten in an airport? I would have to say it was sushi in Tokyo.
Treasured find in the back of your fridge? My cooking wines, marsala. It’s not in the fridge, it’s in the pantry. My italian grandmother put marsala on everything! When she made peas or sauteed green beans, or cooking a steak. Everything! A nice dry one. You use the sweet ones for zabaglione and I love to make that to put over fresh fruit for dessert. I really love that. Florio from Sicily makes a really nice marsala.
Who taught you to cook? My love of food started in both my grandmother’s kitchens. I was fortunate to have two grandmothers who were fantastic cooks, one from England and one from Italy. My English grandmother taught me to bake. Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding. We had dinner every Sunday at my Italian grandmother’s house. She made a ciabatta style bread every Saturday. She made enough for her children and all their families for the week. With the same dough she would make the best pizza I’ve ever had in my life. She squished San Marzano tomatoes over the dough, put Italian sausage, fresh basil and mozzarella. My father’s friends used to beg him to take them over for Saturday pizza. It was an event!! Also, my mother is a fabulous cook! She can cook as good as any Italian.
I had some really good friends at college in Miami who were from Italy and relocated to Caracas, Venezuela. She’s from Florence and her mother taught me her amazing sauces. That’s when I really started loving to cook.
What’s your go-to dish for company? You know how organized I am, it’s not like anyone just shows up here on the fly! Everything is planned. I do love to make Thai food! Beef panang is always a favorite with lime leaves that I always keep in the freezer.
What’s on your cooking playlist? Sade
What’s your go-to olive oil? Villa Di Trapano made from the olives at my family’s property in Sezze.
Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Coffee! I froth skim milk with my mocha crem, a little frother device and put in some sweetener. I pour in very strong coffee.
Date night--at home? or out? Out, especially when traveling.
Most stained cookbook? My Marcella Hazan The Classic Italian Cookbook. It’s my only cookbook that the cover is torn to shreds. Janet Wakefield and I call it the Bible. It is the best, most complete Italian cookbook ever written. She is the queen, in my mind anyway.
Surf? or Turf? Turf! You know, I really like T-bones, preferably in Florence, Italy. Bistecca alla Fiorentina. I’ve always loved T-bones, best of both worlds. You get the New York strip side and a bit of the filet.
Indispensable kitchen tool? Besides my chef’s knife, I use my kitchen shears a lot. I replace them regularly because they are hard to sharpen.
Staple childhood comfort food? My mom is such a fabulous cook, I loved her leg of lamb with our family’s Veazey sauce. It’s a family recipe from when my mom’s father was growing up. Stick of butter, jar of apple jelly, ketchup and whole cloves. You know how delicious it is! I’m talking a long time ago, probably 100 years. Oh and her mashed potatoes which are phenomenal! I think I’ll call Luisa's mother to score her secret to phenomenal mashed potatoes!
Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? That’s a hard question! Maybe my grandmothers. They used to go on vacation together. They never knew I learned how to cook, didn't know I became a chef. I would like to cook dinner for my grandmothers since they never had a chance to eat my food after I became a chef. She got emotional
Ideal grilled cheese? I make them all the time especially since I don’t have a lot of time to cook right now. Ezekiel bread, lots of butter, Swiss, honey mustard and hot sweet jalapenos. Made it for dinner last Thursday night. I may not have much in the fridge but I always have all those things!
Favorite pizza topping? When I'm in Sezze I get a pizza margherita. The best mozzarella di bufala is made right there.
Where would you want to take a cooking class? Bangkok!
What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? One thing I always said in my cooking classes, everything needs salt & pepper. There’s not a lot of things that don’t. With salad, kosher salt. For finishing, JQD salt, and always fresh ground pepper from my favorite pepper mill
Three things next to your stove? Villa DiTrapano olive oil, JQD salt and my favorite pepper mill. And a bottle of good balsamic from Modena.
Favorite Sports Team? When I lived in Miami I loved the Dolphins and Hurricanes. And because my dad was a Notre Dame Double Domer, the Fighting Irish.
Amatriciana Tomato Sauce with Pancetta and Chili Pepper
Through her extensive cookbooks, Marcella Hazan brings classic Italian food into our kitchens and I will forever cherish making many of these recipes with Luisa! Guided by her ‘queen’ Marcella, Luisa has served delicious Italian dishes at hundreds of catered parties and has taught these recipes in her celebrated series of cooking classes. This one is close to 20 minutes. Marcella suggests simmering the sauce for 25 minutes. I used a deep pot so it could simmer with some vigor for 15 minutes and called it done. And delicious! Buon Appetito!
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
A ¼-inch thick slice of pancetta, cut into strips ½-inch wide and 1 inch long (I used a 4 ounce package of diced pancetta)
⅓ cup wine, optional (I splashed some Sauvignon Blanc into my pot to deglaze, Luisa uses red wine)
1 ½ cups canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, drained and cut up (I followed Luisa’s lead and used half a box of Pomi chopped tomatoes with their puree)
Chopped hot red chili pepper, to taste
Salt
3 tablespoons freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
2 tablespoons freshly grated romano cheese
1 pound pasta
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil for pasta. Time the cooking of the pasta to correspond with the sauce being finished. It is most important not to leave the cooked pasta waiting...so if the sauce is done, it can wait a few minutes for the pasta to finish.
HEAT the oil and butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion when the butter has melted and saute until it becomes pale gold, about 7 minutes. Add the pancetta and cook a few minutes to render its fat. Add the wine, if using, and stir to deglaze the pan. Stir in the tomatoes, chili pepper and salt and cook in the uncovered pan at a steady simmer for 25 gentle minutes, or 15 vigorous minutes. Taste and add chili pepper or salt if needed.
DRAIN the pasta and toss with the sauce. Add both cheeses and toss thoroughly before serving in heated bowls.